by Marilyn Fidler, Marketing Consultant
For many oenophiles, a significant part of the enjoyment of wine transcends its taste and nose. There are all the small rituals and presentation elements that complete the pleasure of imbibing. The shape and color of the bottle. Stelvin or screw cap closure. The careful extraction and scrutiny of the cork. Satisfaction and pride in having a well-stocked wine bar or cellar. Etc.
So are vintners, retailers and oenophiles ready for wine by the keg? Pouring wine directly from stainless steel kegs has been in practice for years in taverns all around England and continental Europe. Much more recently, there are a sprinkling of restaurants and bars in the U.S. who have been dabbling in kegged wine received primarily from vintners in the wine growing regions on both coasts.
The economics are persuasive. Kegs reduce waste by dramatically reducing oxidation. They also eliminate the need for corks, closures and bottles. Stainless steel kegs can be effectively reused and will last approximately 5 years. Wine by the keg can reach the end user more quickly than bottled wine.
Kegged wines offer entirely different metrics for both the vintner and the retailer. As more wines are sold by the keg, bars and restaurants will be able to offer pour-by-the glass service at less prohibitive prices. But it may take some time to sort out whether the concept increases or decreases profitability. In some cases, multiple bottle purchases might exceed the equivalent of wine-by-the-glass purchases for the same number of people or would it be vice versa? Since kegs require some space, will retailers be able to stock as many varietals, thereby reducing the choices for bar tavern customers?
Most importantly, it will also take some time to determine if oenophiles, particularly in the U.S., are ready to embrace kegged wine. Despite positive technical reports about the efficacy of screw top wine bottles, many purists cannot get past the Ripple image. But, if kegged wine does catch on in the U.S., it’s only a matter of time until wine toga parties proliferate around the college circuit, which isn’t an altogether inappropriate concept. After all, wine originated when and where togas were the height of fashion.

